How To Clean Iphone 11 Pro Max Camera

Introduction

Use this guide to remove and replace the front camera assembly (a.k.a. selfie cam) in an iPhone 11 Pro Max. Note that if you replace this part, Face ID will no longer work. This repair will restore a broken selfie cam to working order, but only Apple or an Apple "authorized" technician can restore Face ID.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger iPhones like the iPhone 11 Pro Max.

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger iPhones like the iPhone 11 Pro Max.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Press both suction cups firmly into place.
If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.
Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.
Skip the next two steps.

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port). Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick. Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Remove two 1.3 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery cover bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove the bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Use a Y000 driver to remove six 1.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

Use a Y000 driver to remove six 1.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector. If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Remove the display assembly.

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the Face ID dot projector and sensor cables from their sockets on the logic board.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the Face ID dot projector and sensor cables from their sockets on the logic board.

Gently push the Face ID cable connectors away from the logic board to access the selfie cam connector underneath. Disconnect the selfie cam by prying its connector straight up.

Gently push the Face ID cable connectors away from the logic board to access the selfie cam connector underneath.
Disconnect the selfie cam by prying its connector straight up.

Grasp the front camera assembly with tweezers, being careful not to get fingerprints on the sensors. Slide the front camera assembly slightly down and to the left to free it from the enclosure.

Grasp the front camera assembly with tweezers, being careful not to get fingerprints on the sensors.
Slide the front camera assembly slightly down and to the left to free it from the enclosure.

Remove the front-facing cameras.

Remove the front-facing cameras.

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